The No Sew Crochet Snapback Pattern
- shanise quin
- Feb 21
- 5 min read
Updated: May 16
I was recently tasked with making these custom caps for a long-term customer of mine. While researching, I noticed something interesting: most patterns either completely omitted the original hat's seams or required you to crochet chains and secure them onto the surface afterward.
Now, me being a rather lazy efficient crocheter, I prefer minimal-sew projects. I didn’t want to spend my life sewing on "fake" seams when I could just build them into the design. So, I decided to write this out for the other "efficient" makers out there.
I’m offering this pattern for free because I’m not exactly reinventing the wheel here—and full disclosure: I’d love for you to get to know my brand and check out the shop while you’re here! This is my first (and maybe only) pattern, so go easy on me.
Support the Maker
If you love the pattern and want to send a "thank you" tip, you can find me at $Shanisequin on CashApp or the tip jar on the blog page. I also have a clean, ad-free downloadable PDF version available for $2.
Pattern Instructions
Everything I used is what I personally used (except I sew my project to my caps and then glue what I can’t sew). At the end of the day, you can do whatever you want, and it will still turn out fine. It is a very easy-going type of project.
Materials Needed
Base Cap: The caps I used
Yarn: Size 4 Worsted Weight
Hook: 5 mm
Adhesive: Fabric glue (for the brim and snapback edges)
Tools: Scissors, Tapestry needle, Clips/Stitch markers
Terms to Know
There are hyperlinks for YouTube videos that will teach you all of the terms mentioned.
Pattern Notes
Stitch Counts: Precise stitch counts aren't provided for every round because different hats and head sizes will require more or fewer increase rows. Use the guide hat to judge when to stop increasing.
The FPDC Rule: During the increase rounds (Rounds 2–5), do NOT skip the stitch behind the post stitch like you normally would in other patterns. After Round 5, you will work them normally.
Working in the Round: For Part 1, you will not turn your work. Start every round with a ch 2 and end every round by sl st into the first stitch to join.
CRITICAL: Do not pull the magic ring close at the start. You will need the hole to anchor the hat to the button later.
Part 1: The Crown & Body
Round 1: Magic ring, ch 2, 11 dc. sl st to first dc to join.
Round 2: ch 2. dc in top loop, fpdc around the same st, 2 dc in the next st. Repeat around. sl st to first dc to join.
- Note: You should have exactly *6 evenly spaced fpdc stitches in total. This ensures the texture aligns with the 6 panels/seams of the cap
Round 3: ch 2. dc in 1st, dc in 2nd, fpdc around fpdc below, dc in next, 2 dc in next. Repeat around. sl st to first dc to join.
Round 4: ch 2. 2 dc, dc in top loop, fpdc around fpdc below, 2 dc, 2 dc in next. Repeat around. sl st to first dc to join.
Round 5: ch 2. 3 dc, dc in top loop, fpdc around fpdc below, 3 dc, 2 dc in next. Repeat around. sl st to first dc to join.
- Note: If the top of your hat is covered, stop increasing here. Otherwise, continue the sequence.
Round 6: ch 2. dc in each st around (maintain fpdc columns). Remember to skip the stitch behind the fpdc here and throughout the rest of the pattern. sl st to first dc to join.
Round 7 (Start of Half Seam): sl st into the middle of the first dc cluster. ch 2. dc in each st around (maintain fpdc columns; on the third fpdc do a regular dc instead. This will end the seam for the half seam at the front of the cap). sl st to first dc to join.
Rounds 8–10: Repeat Round 7. sl st to first dc to join.
Part 2: The Snapback Opening
Row 11 (Rs): If you don’t have a snapback style cap, then this part isn’t for you. Just keep on with Round 7 until the brim.
ch 2, turn to the wrong side. sl st until one stitch away from fpdc. Turn back to the right side. dc in each stitch across (work fpdc in post columns). Stop when 2 stitches remain to create the gap.
Row 12 (WS): ch 2, turn. dc2tog. dc in each st across (bpdc in post columns). dc2tog in last two stitches.
Rows 13–15: Continue alternating WS (bpdc) and RS (fpdc) rows.
Part 3: Securing to the Cap
Anchor: Poke the cap "nub" (top button) through the open magic ring.
Align: Line up the crochet half-seam with the cap's front middle seam.
Tighten: Pull the magic ring tight and weave in the end immediately to lock it.
Hold: Secure the rest of the piece to the cap using clips or a few anchor stitches.
Part 4: The Brim
Attach Yarn: Join at the fpdc stitch near the front seam. I personally start at the post to the right side of the half seam in the front with RS facing me.
Row 1 (RS): ch 2. dc into each st across from one post to the other. Tip: Use BLO for a distinct ridge look.
Rows 2-3: ch 2, turn. dc across.
Row 4: ch 2, turn. dc2tog, dc across until 2 remain, dc2tog.
Row 5: ch 2, turn. dc across.
Row 6: ch 2, turn. dc2tog, dc across until 2 remain, dc2tog.
Row 7: ch 2, turn. dc across.
Row 8: ch 2, turn. dc2tog, dc across until 2 remain, dc2tog.
Row 9: ch 2, turn. dc across. Fasten off. This last row should slightly overlap the edge of the brim.
Final Assembly
Brim: Apply fabric glue to the side edges and underside of the cap brim. Fold the crochet overlap over and secure.
Edges: Secure the crochet around the bottom edge and snapback. I recommend using adhesive in areas where the needle cannot pass through the cap material.
Thanks for sticking it out with me! I appreciate you visiting my page. While you’re here, leave a review or contact me if you want to share some advice. And don’t forget to check out my shop! I have some pretty cool stuff, but since you’re obviously a crocheter, check out my home fragrance section. I promise you won’t regret it.
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